

Coffee Culture
Season 3 Episode 307 | 25m 46sVideo has Closed Captions
In Abu Dhabi, Chef Maria Loi learns about the customs & traditions of their unique spiced coffee.
Chef Maria Loi of the acclaimed NYC restaurant, Loi Estiatorio, learns about Abu Dhabi’s rich coffee culture and traditions. In Qasr Al Hosn, a coffee expert explains the cultural significance of Gahwa, traditional Emirati coffee, and how it is prepared. Loi joins Chef Sumaya Obaid at Al Fanar Restaurant for some early morning Emirati classics. In Greece, Loi makes a Greek-style coffee cake.
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Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
The Life of Loi: Mediterranean Secrets is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television

Coffee Culture
Season 3 Episode 307 | 25m 46sVideo has Closed Captions
Chef Maria Loi of the acclaimed NYC restaurant, Loi Estiatorio, learns about Abu Dhabi’s rich coffee culture and traditions. In Qasr Al Hosn, a coffee expert explains the cultural significance of Gahwa, traditional Emirati coffee, and how it is prepared. Loi joins Chef Sumaya Obaid at Al Fanar Restaurant for some early morning Emirati classics. In Greece, Loi makes a Greek-style coffee cake.
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♪ ♪ Experience Abu Dhabi.
♪ ♪ The Greek National Tourism Organization.
And SALFO Engineering & Management.
♪ ♪ LOI: I am Maria Loi, executive chef of Loi Estiatorio in Manhattan.
When I was growing up in Thermo, a small village in Greece, food was a way of life.
The Mediterranean diet is considered the healthiest in the world.
And I have seen how it can truly change people's lives, like it changed mine.
And since then, my life has been all about the Mediterranean diet.
♪ ♪ Each season, I take the cornerstones of the Mediterranean diet and travel the world, learning about different cultures, gathering inspiration, exchanging ideas... - Oh!
LOI: And then, going back home to share with you.
♪ ♪ On this week's episode, we are getting an insider's look at Emiratis' rich coffee culture and traditions.
We'll be meeting up with a coffee expert at Qasr Al Hosn, a historic landmark.
We will taste and learn all about gahwa, a traditional Emirati coffee, including how it's prepared.
We will then head to Al-Fanar restaurant, where my friend chef Sumaya Obaid will share with us some Emirati breakfast classics.
And speaking of classics, back in Greece, I am going to share one of my favorite daylong breakfast treats.
It's a tasty, healthy, easy, and moist Greek-style coffee cake.
It's all happening now on The Life of Loi.
Páme!
♪ ♪ I am so lucky today.
I'm going to learn a lot, and you will learn, too, because I met these nice people, and they are going to teach me about coffee, the difference of the Emirati coffee and the Arabic coffee.
- So welcome, Chef Loi, today.
Salam alaykum, first of all.
Today we're here in the House of Artisans, specifically in Bait al Gahwa, which means the House of Coffee.
So today, we will be preparing the Arabic coffee using traditional methods.
LOI: Mm-hmm, I can't wait.
What's your name?
- So, my name is Madawi.
And I will also introduce you to sane' al gahwa, which means "the coffee maker."
His name is Omar.
LOI: Go ahead-- show me, show me.
- So we usually start by roasting the coffee beans using tawa and mehmas.
Tawa is the pan and mehmas is the tool that we use to stir the coffee beans while roasting.
While, of course, we have the different stages of roasting.
LOI: Mm-hmm.
- Let me show you that.
To start with, we have the raw beans that are green in color.
LOI: Mm-hmm.
- And then we slowly roast it till it gets to the lightly roasted, which is locally known as al shaqra'.
Al shaqra' means "the blonde."
Majority of people prefer the medium roast, which we're using for today.
So as you can see, sane' al gahwa now placed the coffee beans in al mebrada.
LOI: Mm-hmm.
- And al mebrada is a tool that we use to cool down the coffee beans and to remove its husk.
Now he's removing the burned beans and the husk that may affect the taste and quality of al gahwa.
LOI: I like those beans.
- Yeah.
So now using al menhaz and al rashad, he will grind the coffee beans.
And while grinding, he will make a certain rhythm.
(pestle dings, then thumping rhythm) (pestle dings) So the sound that you just heard... LOI: Mm-hmm.
- ...is like an invitation to the neighborhood that we're preparing fresh gahwa and that they're most welcome to join us in our sitting area.
And back then, also, every home had their own rhythm... LOI: Mm-hmm.
- ...so that the neighbors would know in which home they're actually preparing gahwa.
Now he's using fenjan, our coffee cup, as a measurement tool to measure the amount of coffee he's adding.
We use three different pots to prepare al gahwa.
So the biggest one, we call it dallah al-khamra, and we use it to boil the water only.
The medium one, we call it dallah al-talgeema, and we use it to prepare al gahwa in.
And the smallest one is dallah al-mazalah, which we use to serve the gahwa to the guest.
LOI: It's a celebration.
Do you do this every day?
- Yeah, traditionally, yeah.
LOI: Amazing.
- Now he will be preparing al gnad.
And al gnad are the spices and flavors that we can add to al gahwa.
So we can add cardamom.
LOI: I love cardamom.
- We can also add some cloves, as well as nutmeg.
Some rose water and saffron, as well.
So the cardamom is usually crushed and added to the boiling gahwa, while the saffron is added to the little mazalah.
LOI: Okay.
- Because saffron is very soft, and adding it to the boiling gahwa might evaporate the taste.
Now he's preparing al leefah.
And al leefah is made from palm tree fibers.
It acts as a filter to filter the coffee from any add-ons.
We made use of everything in the palm trees.
So we're just waiting for the gahwa to boil a bit.
LOI (sniffs): It smells so good.
The aroma comes right here.
- So, sane' al gahwa is usually the first person to try al gahwa to make sure of its quality and taste.
LOI: How is it?
(cups rattling) - So the sound of rattling the cups reflect that the gahwa is ready to be served now.
So we usually serve dates, as well, to balance between bitterness and sweetness.
LOI: Thank you.
Thank you very much.
- Uh, also, as you can see, he's holding dallah in his left hand and fenjal in his right hand.
LOI: Shukran.
(sniffs) Wow.
(laughs) It's so good.
And you don't give a lot, right?
- Yeah, also, if you notice that he just poured you a quarter to half of the cup.
LOI: Mm-hmm.
- And that exactly refers to generosity and hospitality in U.A.E.
It's because we would like our guests to spend more time with us, as we'd also like to serve them more gahwa while it's still fresh and hot.
And usually, if a guest wants more gahwa, they just have to place their cup like this.
But if they had enough, they sway it sideways.
LOI: Uh, no.
(laughs) Thank you again.
Thank you.
And thank you for watching us.
♪ ♪ I love coffee.
I will make something that, it has coffee there, the coffee taste.
And here we are, under the Acropolis, of course.
Dr. Orlando Gonzalez, who else?
LOI: Thank you again.
- Thank you for... LOI: Thank you.
- Thank you for inviting me.
LOI: Thank you very much.
- Beautiful.
LOI: Let's go, let's make our cake.
- You're gonna make cake out of these... LOI: Yeah.
- ...few ingredients?
LOI: That's the beauty of it.
- That's the beauty of it.
Okay.
LOI: We have sugar.
You see that we didn't add a lot of sugar in there.
- Right.
LOI: We have three eggs.
You can add five eggs, but why?
- Okay.
LOI: It's okay.
Then, uh, orange zest.
Yogurt-- yeah?
- Love yogurt.
LOI: The Greek coffee.
- Greek coffee.
LOI: Olive oil.
(laughing) - Of course.
LOI: And just a pinch of salt and baking powder.
- Beautiful.
LOI: I will start with the sugar and the eggs.
- Okay.
LOI: In order-- it's a small tip-- your eggs don't smell eggy, you just add orange zest.
- Oh!
LOI: Or lemon zest.
- Any citrus... LOI: Yeah.
- ...may be skinned, okay.
And it's, uh, the orange zest is really healthy for you, actually.
It's got some antioxidants in there.
Gives it that citrusy taste.
Beautiful.
LOI: And I love the orange taste-- with coffee?
- Oh, yeah.
LOI: It goes perfect.
- Oh, yeah, perfect.
You know, eggs are actually very healthy for you.
People don't realize how healthy they are.
They contain a, uh, an ingredient called lutein.
And lutein is very good for your eyes.
LOI: Okay, you change everything that I know.
Usually people think, you know, that if they eat eggs... - Correct.
LOI: ...they will have the bad cholesterol.
- Yeah, studies have shown otherwise.
LOI: So let's break the eggs.
You mix it with the sugar.
- Okay.
LOI: So actually, you dilute the sugar... - Mm-hmm.
LOI: ...into the eggs.
- Into the egg.
LOI: Perfect.
So now... (sniffs): Oh, God.
- (sniffs): Mmm.
LOI: I love Greek coffee.
- (whispers): Oh, my God.
What is the difference between Greek coffee and normal coffee?
LOI: First of all, you boil this coffee.
- Yep.
LOI: And, uh...
This is normal coffee, too!
What do you mean?
- Okay.
(Loi laughs) - But then so you don't brew it.
LOI: No.
- Uh, so it retains a lot more properties, is what I hear.
LOI: Yes.
- Greek coffee.
Yeah, so coffee is, uh, contains caffeine.
LOI: Mm-hmm.
- And caffeine, um, you know, for a long time, doctors used to say, "Be careful, high blood pressure."
LOI: Mm-hmm.
- Turns out that most people are able to withstand some coffee.
Caffeine is really good for the brain and for the nervous system.
Uh, so people who drink coffee regularly have, tend to have less, uh, chances of getting Parkinson's, uh, disease and also Alzheimer's.
A lot of new data is coming out, yeah.
LOI: Coffee and olive oil.
- There you go.
LOI: That's it.
- That's it.
LOI: I take both.
(laughs) - That's all you need.
LOI: Here it is now.
So then you add the olive oil.
- Mmm.
- The gold elixir.
LOI: Yes.
I like that.
The gold elixírio.
- Sí.
LOI: You speak Greek.
- (laughing): Okay.
LOI: Elixírio.
- You know, olive oil, of course, is very high in phenolic acids.
It's really good for you, for your heart.
Sea salt?
LOI: Just a pinch of salt.
- Okay.
LOI: So, could balance.
- Yeah.
LOI: Okay.
And now, we have baking powder and the flour.
To mix it?
- Yep.
LOI: Tell me, is it easy?
- This is so easy.
LOI: No mixer.
- No mixer.
LOI: I add all the flour.
And now the yogurt.
- You know, yogurt is a great probiotic?
It's really good for your gut biome.
LOI: And then we have that baking pan there.
- You want me to bring it over here?
LOI: Yeah.
Please.
- Okay.
More liquid gold.
LOI: That's it.
- Beautiful.
More liquid gold on the pan.
LOI: That's it.
- Mm-hmm.
LOI: You go like this.
Everywhere.
- You make a thin film.
LOI: Yeah, the excess... - You drop it back in.
LOI: In there.
- We do not waste olive oil?
LOI: Never.
- No, no.
LOI: And you have it-- so let's add it in here.
- Mm-hmm-- mmm.
So easy.
LOI: But healthy ingredients.
- Healthy.
LOI: And good ingredients.
- So this now goes into the oven.
LOI: Yes.
- And for how long?
And what temperature?
LOI: 175.
- Okay.
LOI: Or 350.
(chuckling): 45 minutes.
- Wow, that's quick!
♪ ♪ LOI: Coffee cake with coffee.
- Beautiful.
Coffee cake with coffee.
LOI: Yeah.
That's a Greek coffee.
- Yeah.
LOI: Boiled.
- Oh, my God.
LOI: That's nice, huh?
- Delicious.
LOI: Good.
Let's try the cake.
- I can't wait.
LOI: Nice, huh?
- Nice.
LOI: Let me put it there.
- Yes.
It looks so moist.
LOI: And easy to make!
- And super-easy.
LOI: Make this coffee cake.
It's really good.
Take, take from here.
- Yeah?
LOI: Yeah.
- All right, cheers.
LOI: Yassou.
- Yassou.
LOI: Please make it.
♪ ♪ We're talking about American breakfast, English breakfast, all of these things.
Even the Greek breakfast, I have to say-- I have to admit that, because I found here amazing things.
So from now on, I will say, "Emirati breakfast."
And when you have a person that you really like, my new friend, Shumaya.
- Habibi, chef.
LOI: First of all, I have to tell my friends out there... - Yes.
LOI: ...where are we?
- We are in Al-Fanar.
Al-Fanar brought the real Emirati traditional house to you guys, to anybody who want to taste Emirati breakfast, Emirati general food.
So, today, breakfast Emirati.
LOI: This is what?
- Baid u tamat, eggs and tomato.
(Loi laughs) And very, in simple way, baid u tamat.
I agree.
LOI: And this we call it... (speaking Greek) - Okay, avramatia.
In Emirati, (speaking Arabic) LOI: But I don't see the star.
- The star.
We are waiting... LOI: Where is the star of the food?
- ...for the star.
- Morning, chef.
- Whoa.
LOI: Morning, chef.
- Is our traditional balaleet, we make it for you.
Have it, please.
LOI: Thank you very much.
- Thank you, chef.
This is, inshallah, amazing.
LOI: He's amazing.
- Thank you.
LOI: Thank you.
Thank you.
I appreciate that.
Thank you.
Wow.
- Balaleet.
LOI: I think it's complete, our breakfast, so we can start.
May I serve you?
- Yes-- please.
LOI: Okay, this one.
- Okay.
LOI: And I take one.
- One, yes, and we eat it usually with honey or date molasses.
Again, and to you.
LOI: She knows.
- (laughs) So, we will serve the balaleet.
LOI: You said that it's very easy, right?
- Yes, it's really easy, and you see how it's really well done?
He is a master in this.
LOI: That's good.
- So... LOI: An omelet, right?
- It is an omelet, yeah.
We put little salt, so it's balanced, the sweet in the balaleet and the salty things in the egg.
LOI: I see.
Yeah.
- So... LOI: And the little, you know, this pasta.
This is pasta or rice?
- It's a, yeah, yeah, it's a pasta.
It is a pasta.
You see the salty?
LOI: Yeah.
It comes... back.
- It comes back.
LOI: What is that bread over there?
- So this is the paratha, which is influenced from Indian culture and Indian cuisine.
LOI: Yeah.
- And it's so good.
And I was saying, you see how many... LOI: Yeah.
- ...layers and layers?
It means this is really excellent.
So I'll just cut few.
(bread tearing) You can hear the crunchy sound.
You see?
And we eat it with the labneh you have or honey, again.
So, I'm... LOI: Mm-hmm.
Mm, mm, mm, mm.
This is what I was doing when I was five years old!
- Bringing you memories?
LOI: Yeah.
- Oh, my God.
Food always bring people together.
LOI: What do you think we should eat now?
- I think we should eat the dango.
Okay, so this is dango.
LOI: Dango?
LOI: It's, uh, chickpeas.
- It is chickpeas.
Definitely-- very simple way we do it.
And, please, chef, can I have the bajella?
LOI: This is bajella?
- Bajella, yes.
LOI: I'm gonna take that.
May I?
- Yes, of course.
LOI: By hand, right?
- By hand.
LOI: Okay, sorry.
- Definitely, chef, yes.
You just... LOI: You don't have to be here with us.
You can come by yourself.
(laughing) - Exactly, and enjoy all of these things.
LOI: Yeah, and more.
- And more and more and more.
LOI: Yeah, and ask for Chef Sumaya.
- (chuckles) LOI: She's not working here, but... - I'll be here.
LOI: Everyone knows her.
So now I know Chef Sumaya, and... - My best to you, chef.
LOI: We'll always be together.
- Of course.
LOI: Okay?
You promise.
- Of course, I promise.
♪ ♪ LOI: I'm going to make for you an easy recipe that you can make for your whole family.
With Dr. Gonzalez, of course.
- Thank you for having me.
(Loi laughing) This'll be great, thank you.
LOI: Thank you.
Thank you for being here again.
What do we need to make this kind of an omelet?
- Very simple ingredients, right?
LOI: Yeah, and...?
- Eggs.
LOI: Break the eggs.
- Eggs are really high in protein.
LOI: Yeah.
- Yeah, very good protein for us.
LOI: As I say, tasty, healthy, easy.
- Simple, yeah.
LOI: That's it, you break the eggs.
Olive oil.
- The gold elixir.
LOI: And, yes.
- Yep.
(Loi laughs) LOI: Gold elixírio.
- The gold elixírio.
LOI: I'm a good mixer.
- You are.
LOI: Look.
- I'm starting to see that.
LOI: Then I need some yogurt-- not a lot of yogurt.
- And that is Greek yogurt, of course.
LOI: Full fat.
- We love that-- great...
It's a probiotic-- it's amazing for the belly.
Stomach issues?
Probiotics-- yogurt.
LOI: That's what Dr. Gonzalez says.
- (chuckles) LOI: Mix it again.
- We're mixing.
LOI: And now we put this, uh, mix with, uh, (speaking Greek).
Herbs-- can you open, please?
- Sure.
(quietly): Oh, yeah.
LOI: Mix the yogurt, that's it.
You see, it's so thick, this yogurt, you know?
- Yeah, you don't add that much.
LOI: You cannot mix it in that.
- Yeah.
LOI: But don't add a lot.
Because you will overpower the eggs with yogurt.
- Yeah, you really added very little, right?
LOI: Yeah, right.
- Mm-hmm.
LOI: So I will add just a bit of flour.
You can, uh, put it like this, if you want to make an omelet without, uh, flour-- it's okay.
But I like it.
It keeps it together.
- Gives it consistency, right?
LOI: Mm-hmm, yeah.
- Yep, mm-hmm.
LOI: So now that's it.
I want the other salt... - Sure.
LOI: ...as well.
It's salt with herbs.
- I'll close that for you-- I got it.
LOI: And I think that that, I mean, let me see.
It's based in mustard seed.
- Mmm.
LOI: Can you add some olive oil, please?
A bit more?
- Sure.
Mm-hmm?
LOI: That's enough.
- Perfect.
I'm gonna keep it in the jar.
LOI: Yep.
That's it.
- We're ready for the omelet.
LOI: That's it!
- That's it.
LOI: Yeah.
It's easy because we will put it in a baking pan, and it will go into the oven.
Ten minutes, and it's ready.
- Perfect.
LOI: Again some olive oil.
- Coat the bottom?
LOI: Yeah.
Hello.
- Beautiful.
LOI: You add it in here.
- All set?
LOI: Hi, done.
I'll give it and to bring it back.
- Perfect.
♪ ♪ LOI: Look at this.
It's done.
- Yeah, done.
LOI: Ten minutes.
160, preheated oven.
And here you are.
- You're done.
Yep.
LOI: And you can eat it cold, as well.
- Oh, you can?
LOI: Of course.
- Okay.
LOI: And I will show you something else.
You cut it.
Put it here.
- Mm-hmm.
And it's actually thin, so... LOI: Yes.
- Yeah, it's... Look at that, you did it perfectly.
LOI: Now, you can add whatever you want in there.
But I like some more yogurt.
- Of course.
LOI: Yeah.
Just, how they say, schmear some yogurt on.
That's it.
And you can go with the back of the spoon.
- Mm-hmm.
LOI: Nice, huh?
- Beautiful.
LOI: And you can add spinach.
You can add, uh, whatever protein you want.
- Right on top.
LOI: That's all you need.
- Right on top, right?
LOI: You have, you have enough of protein here.
- You have enough in there.
LOI: Yeah.
That's it.
Some greens.
- So this will add some crunchiness, as well, right?
LOI: And... - To the... LOI: Maroúli, you know, the, the lettuce.
- Yes.
LOI: They have different vitamins.
Right?
- They do.
They have essential minerals and vitamins.
LOI: Okay.
- Lots of water, so that's good.
LOI: Yeah, but... - That, uh... (Loi humming fanfare) - The chili.
LOI: We have things in common.
- Yes, we do.
Love spice, right?
LOI: Yeah.
- We do.
You know, the chili has capsaicin in it.
LOI: Yeah.
- Which is really good for you.
- Mmm-- oh, and you roll it!
LOI: Yeah, that's what it was.
- Yeah.
LOI: Roll.
Look at this.
- How simple is that?
LOI: You want to roll it yourself?
- Yeah, I'll roll mine.
LOI: Go ahead.
- Sure.
Let me just do this here.
- Okay, yassou.
LOI: Yassou.
- Yassou.
LOI: Yassou.
(crunching) - Mmm.
That pepper, that crunch.
LOI: And it's not too much eggs.
- No-- it's light.
LOI: Yeah.
It's an amazing bite.
- So good.
Mmm.
♪ ♪ LOI: Okay.
- Thank God we're walking.
LOI: Yassou.
- Yassou.
LOI: And yassou.
Remember, everything in moderation except love, olive oil, and good deeds.
(kisses) - The Life of Loi is made possible by the Behrakis Family.
♪ ♪ Experience Abu Dhabi.
♪ ♪ The Greek National Tourism Organization.
And SALFO Engineering & Management.
♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪
Support for PBS provided by:
The Life of Loi: Mediterranean Secrets is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television