
Yorkshire
Episode 11 | 45m 13sVideo has Closed Captions
James returns home to his native Yorkshire, where he is joined by chef Brian Turner.
James returns home to his native Yorkshire, where he is joined by chef Brian Turner. James visits Frances Atkins' beautiful restaurant, The Yorke Arms, where he enjoys her signature dish al fresco. Brian tastes the delights of some Yorkshire charcuterie and later they both take time out, where James brushes up on his clay pigeon skills and Brian is challenged to some off-road driving.
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Yorkshire
Episode 11 | 45m 13sVideo has Closed Captions
James returns home to his native Yorkshire, where he is joined by chef Brian Turner. James visits Frances Atkins' beautiful restaurant, The Yorke Arms, where he enjoys her signature dish al fresco. Brian tastes the delights of some Yorkshire charcuterie and later they both take time out, where James brushes up on his clay pigeon skills and Brian is challenged to some off-road driving.
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JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): I'm going on my most ambitious British adventure yet-- It's going to put a smile on your face.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): --meeting some of the finest chefs in the world-- Raymond Blanc.
James.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): --cooking my way from the far south-- You've got beautiful blue eyes.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): --to the northernmost reaches of the land-- It's a magical experience.
Whoa!
You've got to do this.
It's amazing.
--and using some of the best produce you'll find anywhere.
It is a spectacular place, full of amazing people and amazing food.
This is going to be a bit special.
And some of the places require a little bit more effort to get to.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): I'll be traveling by land, air, and sea.
MAN: There.
Look.
Look.
- Dolphins.
MAN: Dolphins.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): So join me as I explore the British Isles, from islands to highlands.
[upbeat music] Today my journey around the UK has brought me back to my roots.
I can't tell you how chuffed I am to be back in a place I call home-- Yorkshire.
It really is a beautiful part of the world in this neck of the woods.
Every little hill you go over, every corner that you make, there's a different view because there's so much to see.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): It's a blanket of green, and the land is fertile, making it a chef's delight.
Talking of chefs, who's that with one of my books, hitching a lift?
[laughs] Brian Turner.
He's the main man.
[playful music] I've just read this book from front to back.
Have you?
Mate, get yourself in here.
- I think it ends-- - It's a good book, innit?
- It ends up all right.
- It ends up all right.
It wins the man.
JAMES MARTIN: It's got a slow beginning.
[laughter] Right, here we go.
BRIAN TURNER: [sighs] Quite tight in this Mini, in't it?
What are you talking about?
Well, you've got to be friendly, haven't you?
[laughter] Yeah, yeah, look at that.
You forget, don't you, how beautiful this part of the world is?
JAMES MARTIN: Because you were brought up not a million miles away from here, were you?
No, I was brought up in the West Riding of Yorkshire, which is just over there, apparently, it starts.
JAMES MARTIN: Right.
But I was brought in an industrial part, though, where the mills and the mines are.
But this-- we used to come up here for holidays and for days out.
And I always remember my mom used to say to my dad when we were there, and she'd look at the kids, and we'd all say, are there yet?
Are there yet?
And she'd say, will you shut up?
We're riding.
She used to say, we're riding.
[pleasant music] JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): And who can blame her?
The Yorkshire Dales make up most of the national park, covering 841 square miles of protected landscape, which meet the Cumbrian Lake District in the north and stretch all the way down to Otley in Yorkshire.
I've dropped Brian off to meet a pig farmer and headed further south to Coniston Estate to cook a fish dish that salutes Yorkshire, and I found a very fitting spot for my mobile kitchen.
For this dish, I thought I'd use a wonderful trout.
Now, I've got two different trout, actually.
Actually, it's the same trout.
One's farmed, and one's from literally just there.
They caught this yesterday.
But look at the size, the difference.
This is the farmed one, obviously, that we usually find in the supermarkets.
The farmed one will actually grow to this size if you allow it to.
But they're generally literally produced in little pools, and they're fed on pellets, whereas the larger one eats whatever it can find out there.
But it's a beautiful piece of fish.
And I thought I would smoke this, but I thought I would tea-smoke it in Yorkshire tea, of course, for this one.
So the first thing we do is make our mixture for it.
So these are the three ingredients.
I've got some rice, demerara sugar, and Yorkshire tea.
And what you want to do is just get a couple of handfuls of rice.
It's really trial and error, this sort of dish, really.
I always say that it's three parts rice, two parts sugar, roughly, and one part tea.
You just want the flavor of the tea.
So just mix that all together.
Probably a little bit more in there.
But obviously it's got to be Yorkshire tea.
Don't start going off piste and using mint-flavored stuff and lemon verbena Yorkshire tea, that's the key.
But then what I've got in here is this mixture.
And what we're creating is almost like a tinfoil teabag.
Just bear with me on this one.
But you take some tinfoil, a bit of the oil mixture in there.
That's it.
Flatten this down.
Fold this over.
Like that.
And you want, like, a little tinfoil bag, really.
Ish.
That's perfect.
Now, you don't want to compress it, i.e., make a little parcel.
So fold it over too tight.
The reason for that, when it heats up, it'll create the smoke to tea-smoke our fish.
So I'm going to leave that to one side.
And we've got our beautiful piece of fish here.
Now, obviously, there are people out there that don't eat fish with heads on.
Leaving it to one side.
And then we now make our little parcel now to cook our fish in.
So a bit of the old tinfoil over the top.
Take our little parcel here.
Now, it's a good idea, when you get to this stage, just to make little incisions in the top.
Just little incisions all the way over.
Then what we can do is grab our nice bit of fish.
You want a little drizzle of oil.
And then make our little parcel.
So this is where you're creating that en papillote sort of thing.
You're not allowing any of the smoke that's in there to escape.
You want it to escape out the little bag.
But out of here, nothing.
Now, I'm just going to basically just pop this straight on the course.
This is only going to take about four or five minutes to cook.
But that's just going to go straight on there.
OK, wash my old hands.
Then pan on the stove.
Now, for the sauce for this, I'm going to go to France.
This is sauce gribiche.
I know it's France, but I hardly like to do Yorkshire pudding in the middle of this, am I, on a barbecue.
But this is a wonderful sauce with trout.
It really, really is.
But this one, I'm going to elaborate it a little bit.
I'm going to use a little bit of the egg whites, some shallots, some potatoes, a nice selection of herbs, capers and gherkins, and then some croutons with this.
So it's-- literally, you don't need to serve anything with it.
It's a sauce.
It's a dish.
It's a side order.
It's everything.
So we're going to take the bread, and I'm going to chop it into small, little croutons.
All the while keep an eye on your fish.
You see the fish is smoking nicely.
But this sauce is wonderful.
So a little bit of oil in here.
We're just going to fry off our little croutons in here, just to color them nicely.
And while that's happening, I'm just going to chop the shallots.
Now, with this dish, because you're not going to cook it, it's basically just a raw dish, really.
So with shallots and everything else, you want to make sure they're quite small.
Hence the reason why I've cut the croutons quite small.
But we chop up the shallots.
This is where this dish slightly differs.
Because what you would normally do with the egg yolks is make a dressing out of this with some mustard, a little bit of oil, and then serve it with some herbs and bits and pieces.
What I'm going to do is actually just incorporate everything all together.
Mainly because we are in a county where we don't waste anything, to be honest with you.
So we grab the potatoes.
This is where it starts to differ now.
Because I'm going to make this almost like a whole dish in itself.
There's no need to put any side orders with it.
Mainly because I haven't got anywhere to cook them, to be honest.
We take our gherkins.
You chop them up as well.
And with the capers, of course, you just kind of throw them in.
But first thing I'm going to do is make our little dressing with this.
So the dressing is done.
Similar to sort of a mayonnaise, really, but like a-- like a split mayonnaise, if that makes sense.
You're doing this intentionally.
So you take the egg yolks from this.
Touch of mustard.
Dijon mustard.
Not English mustard.
We mix this together.
And then we take some oil.
Now, I'm using olive oil.
Classically, we'd use a little bit of what they call pumice oil or just a plain oil, veg oil, something like that.
Then we take some lemon.
A little bit of zest and the juice of a lemon.
Now, this fish is about there.
So I'm actually just going to take it off and leave it to one side.
So asbestos fingers.
I'm just going to leave that sat there.
Like that.
So you can see what you end up with is this dressing.
It looks-- it looks kind of off-putting, doesn't it, really?
But it looks like a split or scrambled eggs.
But that's how it should be.
You can actually blend it so it's smooth if you wanted to.
But then what you do is you take all the ingredients.
So we've got all of our stuff off here.
We then take our croutons, all in as well.
Now, the herbs are really important for this.
Always, always, it's got parsley, and it's got tarragon.
You can mix and match it, but as long as it's got these two in, that's the key.
So-- so like all the rest of the ingredients, we've got to chop these quite fine.
In we go with our herbs.
Salt and pepper, of course.
You mix all this lot together.
This is this wonderful little gribiche.
And the crunchiness of the croutons really works together with, obviously, the trout.
And to serve this, we can then get our plate.
And then, look, our fish.
You can open this up.
And then you lift this off and pop it straight on there.
You can then take the skin off this if you want.
To do that, just a knife along the back here.
All the way down the back.
And then the skin will actually just peel off.
All the way down.
And then you've got this wonderful little gribiche.
And you can just pop that all the way around.
So just to finish this off with our nice bit of fish, you've got a little bit of oil.
You can drizzle that over the top as well.
And then this is where I'm then going back to my Yorkshire roots as well, because I like rhubarb with this.
I just think rhubarb with this is also ace.
And you just-- you can peel this.
We just put little bits of rhubarb.
A little bit of chervil.
But just remember one thing when you finish-- put toad in t'hole when you're done.
That means close the door when you're finished.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): That's for you, Yorkshire-- tea-smoked trout, sauce gribiche, and rhubarb.
[pleasant music] I've returned to my homeland, Yorkshire.
To the Dales, to be precise.
And my travel buddy today is highly acclaimed chef and local legend Brian Turner.
Quite tight in this Mini, in't it?
What are you talking about?
[laughter] Well, you've got to be friendly, haven't you?
[laughter] JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): This county is bursting with produce, and I know Brian loves to try new things.
So earlier, I dropped him at the Grid Iron Meat Company's smokery in the village of Kilnsey.
It's owned and run by Ian Smith, a pig farmer who's adopted a Mediterranean approach to curing his pork.
Ian, this smells fantastic, I have to say.
Dragged me from right out there to right in here, that wonderful smell.
Tell us what you've got happening here.
Yeah, well, these are some rare-breed pork bellies that we've cured.
And we've cured these with our juniper-based gin cures.
Dry it out.
Then it goes in here to be smoked.
These will make pancetta.
And this one makes a nice fatty back bacon.
How long will that take in there?
It's about eight hours.
It's about an eight-hour smoke.
We use applewood.
BRIAN TURNER: Oh, it sounds fantastic.
Look, why don't we just go and sit outside?
Because that sun is shining so nice out there.
Tell me how the story unfolds.
Absolutely.
Let's go.
After you.
[lighthearted music] So how did it all start, this love for-- is it butchery?
Is it charcuterie?
Or is it a bit of both?
Well, the fresh meat side came first, where I wanted to do an online version of what my dad used to do.
I was brought up in a butcher's shop in a village in the Dales.
Doing the online retail, it became obvious very quickly, as it does to most butchers, that everybody wants the prime cuts, and nobody wants-- Well, yeah.
And the secret is using the rest, is it no?
Yeah.
The carcass balancing and using the whole carcass.
So that's where the charcuterie came in.
And the first thing we went for was a Gloucester Old Spot frankfurter.
Right, which you're famous for that, apparently.
- Yeah.
- So I've heard.
A Yorkshire frankfurter.
A Yorkshire frankfurter.
The mind boggles.
And apart from the bacon, which we've already seen, what kind of other things do you smoke?
We tend to smoke things like the coppa, bresaola.
the frankfurters are naturally smoked.
And we smoke some of the salamis.
So it strikes me, the next thing we need to do-- you're my new best pal-- is we need to taste some of this.
Right.
Let's do that.
[pleasant music] Now, this looks splendid.
I can't really wait to eat it.
But self-discipline.
Now, this is coppa here.
IAN SMITH: Yes.
BRIAN TURNER: Will you tell people what exactly what coppa is?
IAN SMITH: So the coppa is from the pork shoulder.
On beef, it would be ribeye.
And obviously loses weight and dimension as it dries and cures, which is why it comes out to this kind of size.
BRIAN TURNER: So tell us what you've got here.
IAN SMITH: So this is the same muscle.
Yeah.
It's the collar muscle but made into bacon.
Yeah.
BRIAN TURNER: So here you've got your-- I'm going to call them world-famous frankfurters.
Go on, big that frankfurter up.
So these are-- these are our Yorkshire frankfurters that are made from Gloucester Old Spot pork.
It took about two years to come up with the correct seasoning, but we wanted something that tasted like a hot dog but had ingredients that you could trust.
BRIAN TURNER: This-- what do you call that?
IAN SMITH: That's-- that's nduja, and it's a spreadable salami.
Are you happy if we taste this way and that order?
So taste this first, yeah?
Yeah, yeah.
you-- whatever you fancy.
[pleasant music] ♪ ♪ Well, I don't need to blow smoke and all that, but I think that's one of the best bacons I've tasted in a long time.
And my office is on Smithfield Meat Market, and I regularly look at bacons.
And that is-- I'm going to have another slice of that.
Here's coppa.
It's delicious.
For me, I'd like peppermill on that.
Wonderful.
I want to try that, but I want to try this first.
♪ ♪ I think that is quite spicy.
But I like the spiciness that it's got.
That's lovely.
IAN SMITH: Yeah.
BRIAN TURNER: And I've been leaving this till last.
And I'm desperate to taste them, because I've never-- it's a long time since I've had a really good frankfurter.
What I like about this one is just that very light smoke in there.
It's not overpowering, but it is there.
And they're naturally smoked, as well, rather than being sprayed or dipped.
BRIAN TURNER: Right.
It's a natural smoke.
You should get the snap when you bite it.
Oh, I love that snap.
I've really enjoyed sitting here talking to you.
I've learned a lot.
I've understood a lot.
And I have to say that every one of the flavors are wonderful.
So if I may, may I take some bits and pieces for James to cook with?
Because, you know, he'd be flabbergasted.
He won't make it-- You know you're in Yorkshire, and we don't give anything away.
But I think on this occasion-- - Quite right.
Send him a bill.
No, send him a bill.
[laughter] JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Steady on, Brian.
You'll cost me a fortune.
But you have inspired me to cook something I haven't made for quite some time.
Now, I'm really excited about this dish, and I know Brian would be as well.
Because I'm going to use some of this amazing Yorkshire chorizo to go with this lovely octopus.
And I'm going to slowly braise it and then chargrill it.
First thing we're going to do is go through our veg.
I've got some onions.
I've got some celery, and I've got a little bit of leek.
And what we need to do with this is just chop them up first of all.
So grab the onion and chop it up.
Quite roughly.
But just chop it all up.
And then the same thing with the leek.
[curious music] A little bit of celery.
♪ ♪ Just a touch of garlic.
A couple of cloves of garlic in there as well.
A decent glug of olive oil.
Extra virgin olive oil.
Pop the veg in the pan.
You can grab some rosemary.
Throw that in together with some fresh thyme.
And sweat this down just for a couple of minutes.
I can now add some of this amazing chorizo.
Now, this is Yorkshire chorizo.
What you want is the picante, the soft.
Picante is the added paprika.
The fiery one, really.
But you take some of this chorizo and add it to it as well.
And you'll see that paprika start to leak out of it as well and come out in terms of flavoring this pot as you slowly start to stew it.
Everything just gets thrown in the pot, because this becomes the sauce, the garnish, everything.
The veg, the lot.
What will help it is a good glug of white wine.
Remember, a little bit of that in there.
Now we can add some tomatoes.
You could use fresh tomatoes.
It's entirely up to you.
But tinned tomatoes are good for this as well.
Into the mix.
[pleasant music] A bay leaf.
Just some black pepper.
I'm going to season it with salt afterwards.
Because it's all about this now.
This fantastic octopus.
Now, so many times the octopus that you buy is frozen.
Now, that's a good thing.
Because by freezing the octopus, it actually starts to tenderize it.
Now, octopus is different to squid.
Look at the size of it.
It's beautiful, beautiful.
You either love it or hate this sort of stuff.
But trust me, try it for the first time.
Because it is fabulous to eat.
But you take the octopus now.
We take the entire lot and pop it in the pan.
Sit it right in the center.
Now, don't worry about the beak bit.
We'll take that out afterwards.
And then what you can do is make a little cartouche.
Cartouche is just a little lid, really.
Bit of greaseproof paper.
We just cover this over.
Now, octopus is very different to sort of squid.
Squid, you can get away with just putting it straight on the griddle and cooking it straight away.
Very, very quick.
Octopus needs to cook for a period of time.
Now, I've got one that's been pre-done, so you can see what it looks like.
So I've allowed this pan to cool down slightly.
But you can see what happens with this.
It shrinks quite a bit.
We're going to heat this back up.
Meanwhile, to prepare a nice little bit of octopus, take yourself a small knife, and we can cut these little tentacles off.
It's quite interesting, octopus.
It's one of those dishes that you have when you're abroad on holiday, but we don't really have it in the UK.
But it does taste fabulous.
But this is what we want to do.
We want to bring this back to the boil.
And to add into our sauce, I can use some of these.
These are the little bit of white beans.
Whatever tinned white beans you've got to hand.
And then plenty of chopped parsley.
And rather than use any more olive oil, I like to enrich it with a little knob of butter.
[upbeat music] Or two.
Plenty of black pepper and some salt now.
♪ ♪ So once we got to that stage, we can then concentrate on reheating this.
Now, all I'm going to do is just basically griddle this.
Just drizzle it with some olive oil and reheat this straight on here.
You can use it on a barbecue.
Nice hot pan, griddle pan.
It's entirely up to you, but since I've got one of these little griddles over here.
You want a nice bit of color on the octopus as well.
♪ ♪ Now, the important thing, don't forget, it's already cooked.
So we're not cooking this again.
It's just reheating it.
So once we've got to that stage, it's just a simple matter of plating it up.
And for that, you get some of these gorgeous bean-chorizo mixture on there.
♪ ♪ Some of this chargrilled octopus.
And then, finally, just a drizzle of olive oil over the top.
And there you have it.
Who would have thought it?
Using Yorkshire chorizo.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): A Mediterranean-inspired tasty treat.
[pleasant music] I'm in Yorkshire, my home county and a place I will never get tired of.
Joining me on this leg is fellow local chef Brian Turner.
We've been touring the Dales, taking in this stunning scenery.
You forget, don't you, how beautiful this part of the world is?
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): And Brian's tasted some fine local fare.
What I like about this one is just that very light smoke in there.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): This place is bursting with talent.
And next, I'm heading to meet born and bred Yorkshire lass and top chef Frances Atkins at her 18th-century restaurant, The Yorke Arms.
It's elegant yet cozy inside, but she's also created a great dining experience outside that allows you to take in her beautifully manicured vegetable garden.
So, Frances, first of all, what an amazing place.
I've always wanted to come here.
It's not the easiest place to find.
FRANCES ATKINS: No, it's not.
But that's why it's worth it when you get here.
- It is worth it.
- We have to make it worth it.
And on a day like today, this is pretty special.
But, I mean, the place itself, how on earth did he come to get here?
I just drove down this road one day and saw The Yorke Arms and thought, that's it.
That's super.
It's in a beautiful area.
And it was my home, Yorkshire.
And I thought, that'll do.
JAMES MARTIN: And then this-- I mean, this garden, the veg garden's spectacular.
So at the center of the garden is this.
And you designed this, didn't you?
I designed this, yes.
Because I thought, how lovely to sit in the garden and to drink and to eat?
And I think it's just a very nice thing to do.
And what's it called?
FRANCES ATKINS: The Onion.
It has a red top, like an onion.
And that was inspired from seeing one of those red onions, spring red onion, it was, put in some carbonated water.
And how does it feel to be a Yorkshire icon?
Because that's what you are in terms of the food.
Well, I think you're being very nice to me.
No, you are.
You are.
And I've always wanted to taste-- I'm about to taste the food in a minute.
I can't wait for this.
It's a pretty special career that you've had.
Well, it's-- it's all about the food.
It's all about cooking.
And it brings me great peace of mind.
And that's what I enjoy doing.
And I shall do that until I say goodbye to the world.
You enjoy cooking.
I enjoy my eating, as you can probably tell.
So I'm looking forward to this.
- Great.
- So I'll see you in a bit.
- OK, cheers.
I'm going in The Onion.
It's a nice onion.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Frances has promised me a smoked lamb shank with pickled veg from the garden, and it sounds delicious.
The lamb shank has been brined for 24 hours, and then it's been cooking on this outside fire with smoke chips in it.
So while it's cooking, it's smoking.
In it, we have put cider, tomatoes, garlic.
And you can see it's bubbling away now.
We've used cider because it just adds that little bit of sweetness and interest.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): That sounds amazing.
I can't wait.
Meanwhile, Frances has treated me to a little starter.
JAMES MARTIN: You see?
Quail.
Looks beautiful.
[pleasant music] ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ Didn't like that.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): If you believe that, you'll believe anything.
Frances is not only known for really tasty food, she also has a reputation for making her meals visually stunning.
A few little pretties from the garden.
There you go.
I hope James likes it.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): I love lamb, and I can't wait for my second course.
There we go, James.
Oh, look at that.
I hope this has been improvement on the last.
What do you mean?
[laughter] That starter was delicious.
I don't know what you're talking about.
And I'm just going to just put a little bit of sauce over, because I hate things when they've got a bit dried up.
So it's a bit more on that, so-- OK.
So veg from the garden.
Of course.
And how-- how do you find people have taken to this?
Because, I mean, on a night like, this is the place to-- But in the winter it's great.
JAMES MARTIN: Yeah.
FRANCES ATKINS: It's fun.
Because you can have a really good party in here.
That's really good.
Frances, this is absolutely delicious.
It really, really is.
And you can taste the garden in it.
It sounds daft.
But you can smell it, but also the herbs that you get from it as well Oh, good.
I'm glad you can appreciate that.
It is everything that I thought it would be and more.
Well, that's very kind.
JAMES MARTIN: Because of this.
Thank you very much.
It's a pleasure.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): I love tasting food grown and reared in my home county, so much so, I brought some meat back with me to cook in my own kitchen.
Now, the area all around The Yorke Arms is famous for lamb, but it's also famous for fabulous game.
And I thought I'd do a wonderful little game dish using partridge, roast partridge with cherries.
So we're going to start off with a few bits of onion and a little bit of bay leaf.
So just roughly chop this.
Just roughly.
And then in the pan, in a hot pan, we can then take a combination of oil and butter.
The oil will stop the butter from burning.
So when the butter's in the pan, add our onions.
Now, the great thing about partridge, in fact, all feathered game, is you don't really have to rely on the season.
Because you can get frozen game nowadays, which is also fantastic.
Bit of salt and pepper over the top of the partridge.
Like that.
Touch of black pepper.
A little bit of salt.
And then I'm going to use some thyme.
Just a little bit of thyme.
And start coloring off the partridge in the pan.
Partridge is a fantastic way-- if you want to try a game for the first time, I would say probably try partridge.
So once you've got a bit of color on it, which that is, flip this over.
Take the partridge like that.
Nice hot oven.
For about 10 to 12 minutes.
I'm going to do this wonderful little potato dish using these little potatoes.
All I've done with the potatoes is just peel them and then used a melon scoop and just scooped them out, like that, into little balls.
Very, very Simple.
You start off with a little bit of butter in the pan.
And you want to color the potatoes and color the onions.
[upbeat music] It's a real classic, this one.
You want to get a nice little bit of color to these and the onions first of all.
So make sure the pan is nice and hot.
Now, these onions are not pickled.
They look like pickled onions, but they're not.
They're basically just frozen peeled baby onions.
I'm going to let you into a little secret.
I haven't actually cooked this since I was at college.
College.
Back in Yorkshire was the last time I did this dish.
You can add a bit of fresh thyme in there.
And then grab some stock.
And I'm going to use some beef stock for this.
You can use chicken stock.
But either of the two.
Keep the pan nice and hot.
And almost half-cover these with stock.
Which is going to glaze our potatoes at the end.
I've got some mustard kale.
A bit like spinach, really.
Just removed the stalk.
Because this is going to take literally no more than a minute to cook.
Now, you can see when this is ready, you get this amazing glaze from it.
Look at that.
Just turn off the heat, and they're ready.
Look.
Lift this out.
Roll it around.
Take our gubbins out of the pan.
Keep some of the oil in there.
Just a little bit.
Tiny bit of butter in the pan.
And then pop our mustard kale in.
Now, when you're cooking this, you almost just show it the pan.
So literally allow that to wilt.
Very similar to sort of spinach, really.
All the while your partridge is just nicely resting for at least five minutes before you serve it.
We can then take that off and allow that to sit there.
Meanwhile, I can make our sauce.
Now, we've still got lots of flavor that is in this pan.
Deglaze it with a little bit of red wine.
[sizzles] Just a touch.
Take some stock and reduce this down.
And while this is reducing down, we're going to add some cherries to it as well.
Very similar to what we've done with the potatoes.
We reduce it all down start to get this wonderful little sauce.
Little knob of butter in there.
Touch of salt and pepper.
And while that's reducing, we can then concentrate on our partridge.
Now, you can serve this whole if you wanted to.
You can either just chop it straight down the middle, which is fine.
But I'm actually just going to take this, because it's easier to eat if you take the legs off and the breasts themselves.
So you take the legs off first.
Now, the key to game, I always think, particularly feathered game, in fact, game in general, really, including venison, is to have it pink.
The problem is, with game, if you overcook it, it can be quite tough.
So we've got a nice little bit of mustard kale.
Keep your eye on that sauce, which is nearly ready.
I'll turn that off now.
And then this.
it's purely optional, but just a nice little bit of fresh cherry, just blended together.
Now, these potatoes and the onions, see, they've got lovely and sticky as they cook.
Your nice bits of partridge.
And then, of course, the sauce.
And these cherries that go with it.
Really is delicious.
Just pour the sauce over the top.
And there you have it, a little homage to my homeland, Yorkshire.
Yorkshire partridge with cherries and some fancy potatoes.
Not seen since I was at college.
I'm definitely going to do them again, though.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): It's a vibrant, hearty feast on a plate.
[pleasant music] I'm touring my homeland, glorious Yorkshire, with fellow local and top chef Brian Turner.
BRIAN TURNER: A lot of people don't know how much beautiful countryside there is like that.
The little villages just over there.
Just look.
So pretty.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): And I want to make sure he has a day to remember.
So I've arranged for him to head deep into the wilds to try something new.
He's meeting James Ardron from the Coniston Off-Road Centre, who's going to be putting Brian through his paces BRIAN TURNER: James.
- Hiya, Brian.
How are you doing?
You all right?
How am I?
I'm petrified.
How are you?
- I'm very good.
Thank you.
Don't be.
You don't need to worry about it.
All right.
But, obviously, you're here for the off-roading.
A little bit of 4-by-4.
Yep.
As you can see, we've got quite a lot to have a go at here.
We're not going to do all of that, are we?
We're going to do quite a lot of it.
Oh, well done.
Well done.
I like that.
JAMES ARDRON: Good stuff.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): The tracks here are specifically designed to push the 4-by-4s, and the drivers, to their limits.
Brian has got to navigate steep hills-- JAMES ARDRON: And now over to the right.
There we are.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): --high-sided inclines-- BRIAN TURNER: Hold on.
God, I thought-- I thought I was going to turn inside out there.
JAMES ARDRON: I thought we'd lost you there for a minute.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): --rocky landscapes-- JAMES ARDRON: Just hold on to the steering wheel nice and tight.
BRIAN TURNER: You said don't turn it.
I can't do anything else but turn the blessed wheel.
Will you listen to him, wheel, for goodness sake?
Don't turn.
Oops.
Hallelujah.
We've done well there.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): --and deep water-- JAMES ARDRON: Keep going.
Keep going.
Keep going.
Push it in a bit more.
A bit more.
Keep it pushed in.
All the way on.
Don't lift off.
Keep it going.
Keep it going.
Keep it going.
Keep it going.
Keep it going all the way.
There we go.
Hey, hey!
We did it.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): --while I turn my hand to another great outdoor sport-- clay pigeon shooting.
Pull.
[gunshot] [gunshot] And I love it.
[upbeat music] MAN: Pull.
[gunshot] [gunshot] I wonder how Brian's getting on.
MAN: Pull.
[gunshot] Just on the other side of this brow, there's some concrete steps.
Well, what silly beggar put them there, for goodness sake?
JAMES ARDRON: So the only way to go is to go down them, obviously.
- Right.
Ready?
All right.
So we're going to go down.
And keep it dead straight.
Now you're ready.
[upbeat music] Oh, my giddy aunt.
Oh, for goodness sake, man!
[laughter] JAMES ARDRON: Perfect.
Well, you'll be pleased to know that we've kept the stirring wheel nice and straight.
So theoretically, if we went backwards, we'd go back over the same tire tracks, wouldn't we?
You're not saying that.
You're not genuine, are you?
Yeah.
God Almighty.
JAMES ARDRON: That's it.
And a bit of gas.
Push it in.
Keep it going.
Keep it going all the way.
Keep it going.
Easy enough now.
Keep going.
Keep going back.
Keep going.
And stop there.
Hell's teeth.
[laughs] JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Well, Brian took to that like a duck to water.
Kind of.
I just hope he's still talking to me.
Look at your face.
I will get you back, James Martin.
- What was wrong with it?
- Trust me.
Nothing was wrong with it.
It was wonderful.
- Was it?
You enjoyed it?
I enjoyed it, but there were moments when I doubted that I'd lived to tell the story.
But James, who was my instructor, was brilliant and kept me full of confidence.
Anyway, my next series is going to be skydiving.
I think that's a really good idea.
You could be my parachute.
Just-- just take your hand off there.
Get your hand off me.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Maybe we should just stick to what we do best-- cooking.
And for my final dish, I found the ultimate spot.
Just look at that.
Tell me that that is not spectacular.
And so is this next dish.
I'm going to lose the hat.
Because I'm going to do this amazing dish with pork.
And I'm going to do it on the barbecue.
It's, like, a really simple little stew, this one, using some of these amazing salamis, chorizo that we've got earlier.
So first thing we do is like little bruschettes, really.
So for this, what you need is a dry one.
Don't get a soft salami.
So when you're literally walking around the supermarket, squeeze it.
Squeeze them all.
It's the dry one we want.
And that's the one that I'm going to serve with this wonderful little bit of pork.
And all the pork I'm going to do is just chop it into chunks.
And we do this on little bruschettes.
So the pork goes in there.
The chunks of salami as well.
That's going to go on.
And we're going to do the whole lot.
Like that.
Get yourself the bruschettes, or the little skewers.
Start off with a bit of that one.
That's a good idea, as well, when you're doing this, to also use the salamis to sort of-- be like the bookends, really, for this one.
In there.
A little bit of oil.
Not too much, of course.
You've got natural oils anyway out of the salami.
Bit of black pepper.
Bit of salt.
We'll roll them around in the oil.
[pleasant music] And just pop these straight on a barbie.
And these are going to gently cook.
So meanwhile, I'll just wash my hands.
♪ ♪ So it's a wonderful thing, cooking on the outdoors.
It's just when you're up here, you need about 16 people to make a wind break.
This is how we roll in Yorkshire.
Look.
With this, I thought I'd do a little sort of casserole with it, really.
Nice and simple.
So we're going to start off with a bit of water in the pan.
I say casserole-- you make this simple little sauce.
It's really simple.
It's an emulsion, really.
It uses water and butter.
It's the same way as you should cook veg, really.
Like cabbage and all that kind of stuff.
So equal quantities of butter and water.
That's going to go in there.
And get that boiling.
Because what we're going to do is utilize this, and this is our sauce, to cook all our veg here.
And what an amazing selection of veg I've got.
I've got some asparagus.
I've got peas.
I've got broad beans, a few leeks, some courgettes, fresh garden peas.
But this is what you want.
When you get broad beans, you've got to de-pod these, as in double-pod them.
So when you open them up, you've got your broad bean like that.
And what you have to do with this is peel them again.
My best advice, if you've got kids, get them to do it.
Give them 50p pocket money.
That's what I got.
Look.
We can then get all of our rest of our veg.
So asparagus, we're just going to chop up.
You can chop this up nice and small as well if you wanted to.
But really, all the veg wants to be sort of roughly the same sort of size.
The leeks, little baby leeks, just cut them in half.
So you take the entire lot, the veg, everything, all in.
And while that's in there, we can turn our attention to the other side of the salami, which is the softer one, which is-- this is called picante, which is, like, a little spicy one, a soft sausage.
This is amazing on pizza and stuff like that.
Although pizza should be just margherita.
That's it.
But this, if you want to be a bit fancy-- look.
It's lovely and soft.
Big chunks in there as well.
And what you can do is just take these, chop it up.
But because of the paprika you get in here-- that's the word that you need to look for, picante-- you get this amazing color that comes out of this when you cook it.
Which is going to be brilliant in this stew.
So you throw it all in.
In we go with the peas and the broad beans.
The double-podded broad beans.
Take this off now, because that's probably cooked.
Chop these up as well.
But look, it's all starting to stew together.
The idea is with this sauce sausage, it just starts to break up a little bit, and you get this beautiful color from it.
But just look at that.
It's a lovely thing.
Now, this stuff is amazing.
This is wild garlic.
You can utilize the leaves of this, but also the flowers.
The flowers are just starting to come through.
These little white flowers.
It's brilliant.
If you are going to go out foraging for this sort of stuff, my best advice is go beyond the edge of the path.
Because otherwise the dog pees up against the nearest stuff.
So go a little bit further in.
But this is amazing.
It creates an amazing flavor.
And you just pop this into it as well.
It's also fantastic.
It makes an amazing wild garlic butter if you wanted to.
Mix this together with the butter, stick it in the freezer.
Oh, it's just delicious.
But look-- look at this stew.
And this will start to wilt down in a minute, this wild garlic.
So we season this up.
A bit of black pepper.
A bit of salt.
Like that.
And then, finally, just before this is done, the key to that is don't overcook it.
We've got some parsley.
Now, for this recipe, it will have double the amount of parsley, mainly because the rest of it's disappeared over via Sheffield.
We'll just put a little bit of parsley in it.
[pleasant music] ♪ ♪ I love food like this.
I really, genuinely do.
Look.
Some people say I love food too much.
I've been breathing in for the last 10 minutes.
But look.
And see the color that you get from this.
♪ ♪ Like that.
♪ ♪ Then you can grab your bruschettas.
Put it on there.
Now, if you want to be a bit fancy, you can take a bit of wild garlic leaves.
It's going to be Yorkshire folk shouting at the TV now, going, where's he been?
He's been down south for too long.
What is he doing?
But just a few wild garlic flowers on the top.
So there you have it, a simple little dish.
Pork bruschettas.
Pork-- pork kebabs, we're going to call it up in these parts, with a nice little stew.
My work here is done.
♪ ♪ JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): A hearty feast fit for the Dales.
And a fitting reward for my windbreak pals.
Beautiful.
CREW: Excellent.
CREW 2: Really good.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): It's time for me to say ta-ta for now to Yorkshire.
I've loved every minute of being back, and it's been great catching up with my old mate, Brian Turner.
Well, what a fantastic day.
Great ending to a great day.
And Frances says hi, by the way.
- What, at The Yorke Arms?
- Yeah.
BRIAN TURNER: Lovely lady, isn't she?
To go there and to visit and to taste her food is a real privilege and honor.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): It is everything that I thought it would be and more.
And also, I mean, that chorizo, man-- But I think the nice thing about that is I can't-- I can never see any reason why we couldn't have charcuterie in this country.
And he's obviously realized the same and had a go at it, and he's produced some great lines now.
What I like about this one is just that very light smoke in there.
Well, that's it.
You enjoyed your 4-by-4 experience.
Exhilarating.
You know, that's not my favorite thing.
JAMES MARTIN: I didn't think it's your thing.
God, I though-- I thought I was going to turn inside out there.
JAMES ARDRON: I thought we lost it there for a minute.
[laughter] JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Thanks, Yorkshire.
You never disappoint.
[theme music] ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪


- Food
Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Television
Transform home cooking with the editors of Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Magazine.




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