-Let me introduce you to one of my favorite things in the whole wide world -- the Royal Scotsman... [ Screaming ] Felt good.

...a super-posh sleeper train that takes up to 2,000 guests a year through and to the finest sites my homeland has to offer...

This, to me, is Scotland.

...while delivering the kind of onboard luxury I imagine only the royal family are familiar with.

Ah, this is so great!

It is the grandest of rail adventures through the most romantic and rugged landscapes... Ahh!

Look!

...traveling from coast to coast, loch to munro, and into the wild beyond.

This is the thing I like best -- seeing this beautiful Scottish countryside float by.

I've holidayed on this train a few times now.

-Well, hello again.

-And despite that, they've allowed me back on board.

So now I get to share it with you -- the unbridled opulence and the exquisite work behind the scenes that keeps the passengers coming back year after year.

-Dusting, hoovering, cleaning the bathrooms.

I'm just naturally quite neat.

-We used seven cases of champagne, for example.

-I'll also be stepping off the train to explore this country's historic landmarks... Whoa!

-I've got the first folio of William Shakespeare.

-Wow!

...with unique access to some of Scotland's most iconic buildings... -Was the longest room in Scotland until Holyrood Palace decided to build a larger room.

-I hate when that happens.

-[ Laughs ] -...meeting fellow train lovers along the way.

-Wear your anorak with pride.

-Totally.

This is a VIP tour of Scotland like you've never seen before.

I'm driving a train.

So join me to find out what it takes to keep this ultra-luxury train on the rails.

♪♪ On our last leg, we journeyed through some of Scotland's most famous beauty spots.

We are literally on the bonnie banks of Loch Lomond.

So beautiful.

We traveled the length of the West Highland Line and savored some of the most stunning landscapes in the world and visited breathtaking places like the silver sands of Morar.

I am invincible!

-Invincible!

[ Laughter ] -We delved into Scottish history with trips to the Commando Memorial and the Glenfinnan Monument, all the while being pampered and plied with copious amounts of high-end tipple.

This is so great!

Thankfully, there's no shortage of awe-inspiring rail journeys in Scotland, and I've got three more legs to go.

I'm waking up in the Highlands for the start of another action-packed rail journey.

Had a few whiskeys too many last night.

I need some coffee.

But luckily, on this train, you can just go like this.

And they bring it.

Ah!

Life's terrible.

-Good morning.

Good morning to you, Alan.

-Hi.

How are you?

-[ Speaks indistinctly ] How did you sleep last night?

-Like a log.

-Fantastic.

Little bit of a [indistinct] on the side here for you.

-Thank you.

-[ Laughs ] -Alright.

-Thank you very much, now.

-Thank you.

See you later.

Karen, the head of housekeeping, is a life-saver.

Ahh.

Everything's better.

The swift dining car is all set for a three-course breakfast banquet for those who've managed to get out of their beds this morning.

And even the breakfast is having something special added to it.

-So, it's just simple Scottish porridge -- oats and some water.

And then we finish it off with some salt and a little bit of whiskey liqueur for that taste of Scotland.

-Karen doesn't just look after me.

With 22 cabins to perfect, morning is the busiest time of day for the housekeeping team.

-I think the most important job is to just make sure all the fine details are covered and everything's as perfect as we can possibly make it for our guests.

-While brunch is being served, I've decided to opt for another decadent experience.

Hello, Laura.

-Hello, Alan.

How are you?

-I'm good.

I'm looking forward to a stress-relieving massage.

So you do treatments on people whilst the trains moving?

-Whilst the train's moving.

-That must be challenging at times.

-Little bit.

Yeah.

It's quite funny.

Sometimes you do get thrown off the client if you're not gripping hard enough.

-Oh, my God.

-[ Laughs ] I thought we'd start off with massage.

-All good.

-And then go into a bit of a facial, as well.

-Oh, great.

Double whammy.

-Yes.

-This is the only spa on a train in the whole of Europe.

This is so funny.

I've never had a massage on the move before.

-Even though it's noisy, it's quite relaxing.

-I love sleeping on a train.

-Yeah.

-Oh!

That's nice.

-Ooh!

-Oh, that feels so nice.

There are two treatment rooms onboard, and the therapists who work in the spa were trained at the Dior headquarters in Paris.

What kind of oil is that, Laura?

-So, this is a black rose oil... --Nice.

-...by Dior.

-As relaxing as all that sugaring was, the train is having one of its pauses, just in time for my facial.

This often happens to stop for scenery or stations or let other, busier trains go by on single-track sections.

But I'm not thinking of the real world right now.

You know it's funny.

When you do a photo shoot or something, when I do a photo shoot, that you know things are bad when they get the hemorrhoid cream out.

-And I've heard about this!

-It's happened to me about three times in my entire life.

That's not a bad ratio, the number of photo shoots I've done.

But if your eyes are baggy, it's like it tightens them.

-That is a thing.

-Yeah.

-And can you use it daily?

Like -- I should know this.

-I mean...

I don't know.

I mean... -[ Laughs ] [ Soft music plays ] -What a treat.

Just when I thought this train couldn't feel any more indulgent.

Oh, hey.

-How are you?

-I'm woozy, Fred.

-Oh, yeah.

How was your treatment?

-I feel like Joan Crawford.

-Radiant.

Truly radiant.

-Yes.

I was just wondering, the Dior spa -- Why Dior?

-Well, it turns out that Dior actually approached us, and they revealed this connection with Scotland that Christian Dior had.

-What was that?

-Well, in 1955, he brought a groundbreaking catwalk show to the Gleneagles Hotel in Perthshire.

-Seriously?

-Yeah.

-God.

That must have been a sensation.

-It really was.

It really was.

It would have been something quite spectacular to see.

And it turns out he's a huge fan of Scotland.

-Well, who wouldn't be?

-Well, exactly.

And he's kept this connection with Scotland going throughout the years.

But, you know, hopefully we can now create a show of our own.

-[ Laughing ] Fred clearly knows his stuff.

Not surprising, having worked on the train for 10 years.

So I'm taking him to a quiet spot to find out more about the train's history.

So, how long has this train been operating as the Royal Scotsman?

-It's been operating since 1985.

I should point out that when it started, it was operating on a set of leased carriages, and it was actually then called the Queen of Scots.

-Oh!

How interesting.

-It operated as the Queen of Scots until 1989.

-Uh-huh.

-The gentlemen that were, you know, running the business at the time, they essentially commissioned the build of what you see as the Royal Scotsman now.

-But these carriages were built earlier, but then they were revamped.

-Exactly.

There is actually a very interesting history to all these carriages, 'cause they were all part of British Rail from the early '60s.

So they were built as a very particular set, all with names of fine stones and birds.

We're currently sitting in Snipe.

We also have our two dining carriages, which are Raven and Swift.

-[ Laughs ] -The most exciting thing for us now is that we have this evolutionary history where the carriages were finished off in '89, '90.

There was an additional carriage put in in the mid-'90s that facilitated the double rooms.

We, then, in 2016 added the spa carriage, so we had the spa treatment rooms that we have, as well.

-Right.

-And, then, from there, getting very excited about adding another carriage next year.

-You're getting a new one?

-We are indeed.

-What's that going to be?

-That is going to be some grand suites.

-Ooh.

-Now, we won't be adding to the length of the train, because we're already as long as we can possibly be for the Scottish rail network.

-There's a limit, is there?

-There is a limit.

-Grand suites?

Sign me up for series 2.

But for now, we're on the move once again, heading to one of the UK's most historic rail stations -- Wemyss Bay.

From there, we'll hop over to the Isle of Bute to visit the neo-Gothic mansion Mount Stuart, home to an incredible collection of artifacts and innovation.

Later, I'll be moving on to another of the Royal Scotsman's routes, venturing into Perthshire, where I'll discover a theater with humble beginnings that today puts on world-class productions.

[ Dramatic music plays ] For now, we're gliding along the Firth of Clyde, an area that dominated Scotland's shipbuilding industry.

♪♪ We're arriving into Wemyss Bay.

This Edwardian A-listed station was built to bring people to the coast.

And it's been ranked as one of the most spectacular rail stations in the U.K., with its stunning, curved glass and iron structure.

♪♪ In the 1950s, Wemyss Bay was known as the gateway to the islands for Glasgow holidaymakers who traveled doon the watter to enjoy a break on the Clyde coast.

[ Seagulls crying ] This breathtaking station is looked after by locals who run an on-site bookshop to raise money to keep it looking its best.

I'm popping in to say hello to two of the volunteers.

♪♪ Hello.

Hi, I'm Alan.

-Alan.

Hello.

I'm Simon.

-Hi, Simon.

-Dougal.

-Dougal.

Dougal, hello.

So, Simon, you're the el presidente of Wemyss Bay station.

Is that right?

-Otherwise known as the bookshop manager.

-The bookshop manager.

And, Dougal, what brings you here today?

-Well, I suppose I've been a railway enthusiast all of my life.

-So, let's just go back to the beginning of it, then.

So, it was built in the early 20th Century as a station to kind of get people from Glasgow out onto the water.

-The original station was built in 1865, and it was very dark inside.

It was all covered in advertising hoardings, and only the light was through the skylight.

-This station was rebuilt, finishing 1903, 1904, and much expanded.

And of course with the glorious lazy "S." -So, the lazy "S" refers to the shape of the -- from above of the station.

-We've got a snapshot of Glasgow Fair, Saturday in 1957.

8,000 people through this station in 50 minutes.

-Geez.

-I mean, the trains had about 12 carriages on them at that time, and it was about seven or eight steamers all jostling for stations.

-Today, Wemyss Bay is a busy commuter hub, with trains to Glasgow taking less than an hour.

But maintaining this world-class station is a Forth Rail Bridge type situation.

-The Railway Heritage Trust funded the improvement to the clock tower, and the clock now tells the right time for the first time in many years, so -- -It's going a bit fast, so if people are walking along... -So they'll sort of get there quick.

I think that's a good idea.

Or it's like in pubs.

They always have it ahead.

So you think, "But it's only 5 to 11:00."

They go, "No, not in my clock, it's not."

-The whole of the friends is a volunteer organization.

It's all just enthusiasm and volunteers, including volunteers from Bute, who come over on the ferry to help out.

-That's nice.

-The civilized world is made up of enthusiasm, excellence, and eccentricity.

-Which section would you be in?

-I hope all of them.

-[ Laughs ] -Eccentricity certainly.

Wear your anorak with pride.

-Totally.

[ Dramatic music plays ] ♪♪ [ Seagulls crying ] One unique feature of this train station is the covered walkway, which takes passengers directly to the ferry terminal.

[ Ship horn blows ] I've rejoined my fellow guests, and we're about to make the trip doon the watter, just a 35-minute crossing to a completely different landscape.

We're on the ferry from Wemyss Bay to Rothesay on the Isle of Bute -- famous for being the birthplace of Lena Zavaroni, Scottish entertainment legend.

Seriously.

[ P.A.

system beeps ] - Listen up.

Passengers, return to vehicles now as quickly as possible.

-The Isle of Bute is steeped in history and natural beauty.

We're heading to the magnificent Mount Stuart, arguably the most sumptuous mansion in Scotland, with a staggering 127 rooms.

It's been the seat of the Crichton-Stuart family since the 18th Century.

-Ladies and gentlemen, welcome.

My name is Jim, and I'm going to be your guide for the next hour or so.

-And Jim's going to let us in on the fascinating history behind one of the most extraordinary Victorian homes ever built.

-1877, the head of the house is this man here, the third Marquess of Bute.

He is the richest man in Europe.

He's also the best amateur architect of his day and a scholar of the highest order.

And what he has built is probably the most amazing piece of Victorian neo-Gothic architecture anywhere.

-The Marquess of Bute inherited his fortune from his late father.

After a fire at Mount Stuart in 1877, he worked with Scottish architect Robert Rowand Anderson to design a new and improved home that would surpass its predecessor in grandeur, scale, and ingenuity.

-So, welcome to the Marble Hall, which is the center of the house.

The ceiling is the northern hemisphere night sky when the house was started in 1880.

The white shapes are the 49 constellations of the northern hemisphere.

The gold shapes are the Greek mythological figures that go along with them.

And the stars are cut crystal.

[ Whimsical music plays ] -Jim didn't exactly say that I could have a lie-down on this big, fluffy, purple dog statue, apparently called Fred.

But he also didn't say I couldn't.

♪♪ [ Camera shutter clicks ] Whoa.

♪♪ [ Birds chirping ] Back on board the Royal Scotsman, it's all hands on deck for the staff, who ensure every inch of this luxury sleeper is sparkling at all times.

With most guests off on excursions, it's a chance for Shannon to really get stuck into a deep clean.

-Every day, just whenever we can, a quick, light hoover, quick dust.

But yeah, today's the one where we get right into it.

Yeah, that's dusting, hoovering, cleaning the glass, topping up the waters... [speaks indistinctly] topping up all of the stock, making sure all the cushions are nice and tidy.

Yeah.

So about 2 to 2.5 hours.

It's a good workout.

-Mount Stuart on the Isle of Bute was the first house in Scotland to have electricity, a telephone system, a lift, and the first in the world to have a heated indoor swimming pool.

-Let's pretend we are invited to dinner by the Marquess of Bute.

The china, the porcelain that is on the table is priceless.

1814 Swansea china, each piece hand-painted in London.

And when it is all together, there are over 400 pieces to it.

-Whoa!

Even the train's fancy dinnerware can't compete with that.

And back at the station, the staff is taking receipt of some extra-special produce.

-So, these are little violas that we use on desserts to make it look a little bit prettier.

-Today's haul includes locally sourced langoustines and scallops, 42 portions of Scottish beef, and 50 kilos of fresh fruits and vegetables.

And for Executive Chef Mark, being able to use a variety of suppliers in different parts of the country is one of the perks of working in a moving kitchen.

-Today, the scallops.

Come on today, and we'll serve them tonight.

That keeps them super fresh.

-With food deliveries limited to certain stops along the route, Mark needs to plan meticulously to ensure the kitchen doesn't run out of five-star food mid-trip.

-It's close-knit organization, working with the suppliers to get the products that we need.

-And on top of all that, there's also dietary requirements, like mine, to consider.

-We also have a lot of vegan products put out.

Um, it's the whole point of being on the train is it's special.

♪♪ [ Dramatic music plays ] ♪♪ -On the Isle of Bute, we're exploring Mount Stuart.

The third Marquess of Bute had a particular interest in religion.

And when he converted from Scottish Presbyterian to Roman Catholic in 1887, there was outrage.

-Two generations before that, Scottish history, we've got John Knox, the Reformation, will not allow the Catholic on the throne any more.

And all of a sudden, we've got this gentleman worth £30 million a year -- he's got 14 titles to his name -- turning Scottish history on its head.

It was huge front-page news in every Scottish newspaper of the time.

However, he stuck to his guns, and the family have remained Roman Catholic ever since.

-I love Jim.

He's so enthusiastic.

During World War I, the fourth Marquess of Bute offered up the family home for use as a naval hospital.

-2,100 were looked after, and they only lost 13.

No penicillin, brutal operations, and they only lose 13.

-So this would be where they did operations and be, like, blood and gore everywhere.

Wow.

♪♪ I feel it.

Meanwhile, back in Wemyss Bay, the train is undergoing some essential maintenance work.

The train's crew includes Jan, one of the onboard engineers that work around the clock to ensure the smooth running of this luxury sleeper.

-When we're in Wemyss Bay, perfect opportunity for me to walk up and down the train and basically check the brake blocks.

-There are two blocks on each wheel.

They wear down over time, however, so regularly replacing them is a crucial part of Jan's job.

-Basically what allow the train to stop under the pressure from the locomotive at the front, and most of the time at the rear, also.

-On here you can see that I've still got another 5 or 6 mil on this side, but if I flip it to the flange-facing side, that 5 to 7 mil is gone.

So that is my indication that it's time for me to replace these brake blocks.

-Back on the Isle of Bute, one of the most impressive and lesser-known things about Mount Stuart is that it houses one of the most significant private-archive collections in the U.K.

I've been given special access to see one of the archives' most treasured items with curator Jessica Insley.

♪♪ Hello.

Hi.

I'm Alan.

-Hi.

Jessica.

-Nice to meet you, Jessica.

-I've got one of our most publicized and very special treasures -- the First Folio of William Shakespeare.

-Wow.

-That very famous frontispiece depiction.

-So, what year is this?

-This is 1623.

So this is actually from 162... -It is.

-The First Folio was the first time Shakespeare's works were combined in print.

Only 18 of his plays were printed in his lifetime, and there are 36 in here, meaning half of Shakespeare's most influential work could have been lost forever had this folio not been published.

-And that was two of Shakespeare's closest friends and fellow actors that, after his death, thought that his plays were being terribly abused and misprinted.

And so they were the ones that came together to put it into this printed volume.

-Thank the gods they did.

-And so there were 750 that were printed.

235 survive today.

And 50 of these are in the U.K.

So quite special.

And I took out another volume very specially for you.

-The work of Shakespeare has dominated my own life and career, so I'm personally grateful to the friends who were instrumental in preserving Shakespeare's legacy.

"When shall we three meet again?

In thunder, lightning, or in rain?

When the hurly-burly's done.

When the battle's lost."

I could go on.

-You can.

-I could.

-The other item that we wanted to show was something that's very special from the ceiling of the Marble Hall.

We have over 600 of these stars that are actually screwed into the ceiling.

And in the 1980s and '90s, when the house was restored, they were all taken down and polished by staff people.

You can hold it if you'd like.

-Thanks.

-So it's got that lovely, almost like a tin back, with a mirrored front on it.

And then the crystal star.

-Incredible.

-And these were designed by Horatio Walter Lonsdale, who also designed the stained glass and the constellation ceiling and so much of the decoration in the house.

-What a great job.

-It's such a privilege.

-Surrounded by all these riches.

-There's no other place like it in Scotland.

I feel very lucky.

Yeah.

-Yeah.

-While we revel in the splendor of Mount Stuart, back on the train, it's laundry changeover day.

[ Dramatic music plays ] ♪♪ -Going out dry.

It's probably about a ton and a half, two tons of laundry going out.

And, then, coming back in, is probably about 2, 2.5, closer to 3 when some of it's wet and used.

-Karen and the housekeeping team have a tight window to restock all of the linen on board.

But with limited space to store it, each piece has to be packed away perfectly.

-We need 34 single duvets and 34 single sheets per trip.

The neater you are, the better it is, because obviously fit, everything fits in well, and then you can come to the cupboard.

You can count exactly what you have, and it's easy to restock.

I'm just naturally quite neat at things like that.

Not everybody's as neat as myself.

[ Chuckles ] ♪♪ [ Mid-tempo music plays ] ♪♪ -Back on the Isle of Bute, my tour of Mount Stuart continues.

-Welcome to the chapel.

Red glass.

Sun shines through the red glass, shines on this whole area here.

The combination of the red and the white Carrara marble, pink.

The whole area is pink.

-How long have you worked here?

-Been a guide for over 15 years.

-You're so good at it.

-What a privilege to be here and work in here, you know?

It's not difficult to be.

If you're not enthusiastic -- -Stay home.

-Look, look, look, look, look.

I was talking about.

-Ah!

The pink!

Ah!

The stained-glass windows coming into their own in the afternoon sun.

So, like, if you're going to get married here or if you die... -[ Laughing ] 1:00.

-...try and die at 1:00.

-Yeah.

Have your funeral 1:00 so you can have a good -- a lovely scene.

So, the photograph should take a really nice -- -Yes.

You always want a pink hue.

-[ Laughs ] Yeah, absolutely.

-Wow!

Look at this.

The balcony is usually off-limits to the public, but Jim's kindly showing me the views down the Clyde.

-Yeah.

Quite a view, isn't it?

-Yeah.

-Quite a view.

The people that were doing up this house, the lady said to me, "We found the title deeds.

And, Jim, you're not gonna believe this.

But in the title deeds, it says if I can see Mount Stuart, Mount Stuart can see me.

So therefore, I'm not allowed to put out my washing."

-[ Laughs ] What?

-In other words, the Marquess looking across there, the last thing you wanted to see was somebody's washing... -Some old knickers.

-...hanging out on the line.

-So they got it in the deed.

-They got it in the deed.

Yeah.

To make sure that never happened.

-I'm gonna get that in my next contract.

-[ Laughs ] [ Piano plays ] Amazing places like this really cement my love of Scotland.

♪♪ I think the thing about Mount Stuart is it's like this hidden treasure.

It's not a part of a big organization.

And it's a little, hidden gem.

And as the only Scot in the group, it makes me feel proud to show it off to my fellow passengers.

It's always lovely when other people from other cultures love your country.

And I think the train trip and the people in it really exemplify the sort of hospitality and the welcome and the friendliness of Scotland.

So that's nice to see.

But I suppose I just wish that more Scottish people could actually experience this incredible journey.

But now I guess they can through the magic of television.

Back in Wemyss Bay, the Royal Scotsman is restocked.

But before I reboard, I want to check out one last little landmark.

Go on.

Look at him.

This is obviously a wee boy going doon the watter.

He's even pointed in the direction of the -- of the ferry.

This little boy, known as Bobby, is the brother of Annie, who sits outside Gourock train station.

Both were created by award-winning sculptor Angela Hunter.

So, Angela, you sculpted this little boy?

-Yeah.

The Friends of Wemyss Bay Station commissioned me to make this wee boy who represents a wee boy going on his holidays in the 1950s.

You can imagine coming out of Glasgow from work, where it's steelworks, mines, dirty work, where it's pretty grimy, coming to this welcoming, really sunny, beautiful station, you know?

-Yeah.

-During the Glasgow Fair, factories closed en masse for two weeks.

It would have been the highlight of the year for working families, with affordable rail travel making holidays possible for the first time.

So tell me about Bobby.

-Well, he has his wee fishing line and the sailing boat, and he's dressed in the clothes of the era.

I think a lot of people will remember Clarks sandals.

-I remember Clarks sandals, yeah.

-And yes, just the big grin and excitement of going on holiday.

-Right.

Where is the foundry?

-This is Powderhall Bronze in Edinburgh.

-This is all Scottish-made.

-Oh, yes.

[ Laughs ] -That's good.

[ Dramatic music plays ] Back on the train, tonight's gourmet meal is being prepared by the kitchen staff who work tirelessly to create fine-dining delicacies for guests.

While cocktails are served in the observation car, I'm catching up with returning guest Paula, who loves this train as much as I do.

Why do you keep coming back?

-Oh, gosh.

You know, coming from America, you don't have anything like this in America.

I mean, we certainly have, you know, trains that you can sleep on, but nothing with the panache and style and history and class of service.

And I come alone, but I never feel alone.

-Why is that?

-My husband doesn't enjoy the history and the traveling as much as I do, and he's very happy to let me go, 'cause he knows I'm going to make friends with everyone.

-Do you find this train -- kind of train trip particularly easy to be alone on?

-Absolutely.

One, I feel very safe.

But, also, the people on the train are all so friendly.

-The staff are so lovely on this train, aren't they?

-Yes.

And they remember me, and I remember them.

And it's hugging, and "how are you?

", and "So glad to see you back here again."

-Yeah.

You know, they do different -- Go to different places in the trips and -- -I can't wait.

-There's a new adventure one.

Do you fancy it?

-We'll see if this old body can handle it, you know?

But sure.

-It's wild swimming.

-I went skydiving for my 73rd birthday, so I think I can -- I think I can handle that.

-What was that like?

-Exciting until you pulled the chute, and then you were just kind of floating down.

But, you know, free-falling out of the plane was -- that was very exciting.

Because you're such a spunky thing, Paula.

-Yeah.

[ Laughs ] Let's not go there.

[ Both laughing ] -I'm leaving my fellow guests behind to sample the adventure trip I spoke to Paula about.

It only happens once a year, but General Manager Fred has arranged for me to have a quick taster of this exclusive excursion.

Hello.

-Hello!

Alan, Eliza.

Nice to meet you.

-Hello, Eliza.

-I'm George.

-Hi, George.

It's nice to meet you.

So what adventures do you have for me?

-You're just gonna have to find out.

-Alright, then.

Let's go.

-Whoo.

-Oh.

-Eliza, could I drive?

Yes!

-Go on, then.

-Nailed it.

So, today, I'm getting a little selection box of the things you might do if you came on this part of the train trip.

-Absolutely.

It's called Wild Scotland.

-Wild!

-Yeah.

It's just to give people a taste of wild places that still remain here.

So, our aim with any of our experiences is to reconnect people to nature and re-empower people with the skills to be more self-sufficient in the outdoors.

-Right.

On the first night of this trip, the train stops at Spean Bridge, allowing guests access to Achnacarry.

This historic estate, which was the training ground for Royal Marine Commandos, covers 70,000 acres.

First, we're foraging for lunch.

-So, this is wood sorrel.

What does it taste like, do you think?

-You get a burst.

-Of what do you think it tastes similar to?

-An apple?

-Yeah, yeah, yeah.

That's delicious.

-If you fancy a spot of foraging, it's important to get landowner's permission and only eat foraged foods that you know are safe.

Chanterelles.

-Well-spotted.

That's those.

-Look at them.

-That would go well with our feast, I reckon.

-I didn't know you got chanterelles in Scotland, actually.

-Yeah.

They're native to Scotland.

-Shall we take them and put them in our big, juicy... -Shall I grab them for you?

-...casserole dish?

-[ Laughs ] Let's give them to our chef.

Kieran will make up something delicious.

-Perfect.

-Our camp's on the other side of the river.

But apparently, there is a shortcut to get there.

I usually have a stunt double for this kind of thing.

-Looking good there.

Okay.

So when you're ready.

-So just jump?

-Big jump off.

And away you go.

-Here I go.

Pew!

[ Laughs ] -Yew!

I'm here!

I'm ready for you!

-[ Laughing ] Whoa!

Ah!

That was great.

Oh!

[ Indistinct conversations ] -Get my hands off.

-[ Laughs ] That was such fun.

-Well-done!

Epic!

-Thanks so much.

That's one way to work up an appetite.

-Chef Kieran.

-Hello, Kieran.

I'm Alan.

-How's it going?

-Pretty good.

-We've got some goods to give you.

-Lovely.

Thanks.

-Chanterelles.

-Welcome to the world of chanterelle.

This may look back to basics, but with a private chef, it's anything but.

-I want a couple of handfuls of the mushrooms into there.

Just throw it on with your hands.

Yeah.

And, then, just to your right, there's some sea salt.

So, this is gonna go into a salad.

-Oh, yeah.

Okay.

-This is gonna go into tabbouleh.

-Mm-hmm.

-And, then, the cauliflowers, we're gonna put that onto plates, as well.

-So our work is done here?

-Our work is done.

Yeah.

-That was pretty easy.

It's truly a special thing to have a chef exclusively dedicated to guests.

And Kieran has created a wonderful feast.

Corr.

That looks good.

-Yeah.

And some seeds on their plates.

-Seeds on here?

-Onto the veggies.

Great.

And we're done.

-Gorgeous.

I would just like to take this opportunity to make a public-service announcement for vegan food.

It's easy.

-Yeah.

-It's delicious, it's colorful, it's nutritious.

It's mostly all been foraged from here, in the middle of the Scottish countryside.

I say eat me to all you naysayers.

Thank you.

Let's eat.

That foraged lunch was so good, but I need to work it off.

And Eliza and George have a pack-rafting trip organized to a so-called Treasure Island.

Okay.

Let's go.

[ Down-tempo music plays ] Treasure, here we come.

♪♪ So, what loch is this?

-So, this is Lock Arkaig.

And the island that we go to we refer to as the Treasure Island.

-Legend has it that caskets of gold coins were given to Bonnie Prince Charlie by the Spanish in the 1740s to help finance the Jacobite rebellion.

And it's thought that bounty is hidden right here on an island in Loch Arkaig.

-He buried it, supposedly on this island, and nobody has yet found it, so... -I'm sensing this is not true.

Just saying.

The lure of finding a piece of priceless Scottish history is a huge draw for intrepid metal detectorists who flock here in search of it.

Alas, no treasure.

And as we head back to dry land, my arms are aching.

That was exciting.

And so what will we do now?

What's next on the agenda of adventure?

-So, if you're up for a swim, we can -- There's a waterfall that we can stop for a swim next to.

-And, so, what temperature is the water?

-Basically, we'll just get you in [laughs] and see how you go.

-So let's do it.

-Sounds good.

[ Dramatic music plays ] -But if I'm going to catch hypothermia anywhere, there's no more scenic place to do it than here, the Eas Chia-aig waterfalls, which were used as a filming location for the movie "Rob Roy" in 1995.

♪♪ And if I'm going to be brave enough to take the plunge, I'm going to need to channel my inner Liam Neeson as he played the titular role.

♪♪ ♪♪ -[ Cheers ] -Nailed it.

[ Birds chirping ] [ Mid-tempo music plays ] ♪♪ On the Royal Scotsman, it's a new day and the start of a brand-new journey.

The train offers different routes that reach the more scenic spots Scotland has to offer.

And on this leg, we're venturing into glorious Perthshire.

♪♪ In charge of providing five-star service is train manager Alex.

And I'm squeezing into his tiny office that also doubles as his bedroom.

[ Knock on door ] -Hello.

-Hi, Alex.

Can I come in?

-Yes, you can.

Come in.

-Ooh.

-Tight space.

-This is your...office.

-This is my office and my cabin.

How do you do that?

-Well, I can show you around if you like.

-Please.

-Right.

So, this is my desk here in the corner, so I can do some work here.

Above, I've got some storage solutions, so I've got stationery.

-Look how neat you are.

-You have to be at small spaces.

Obviously, my printer to print menus, daily itineraries, that kind of stuff.

-You do all that here?

-I do all that here.

And then my wardrobe.

-Whoa!

Look at you.

-You can see my ties there.

My formal wear.

I've got a kilt.

-Nice.

See your knickers.

-Exactly.

-Bow ties.

-Bow ties.

So I work in here, and I sleep in here.

So at the end of the day, when I go to bed, I have to clear this often, because they'll be paperwork or things stored in here.

And then this lifts up.

-Ooh!

And it gives you a nice, little protection from the window of prying eyes.

-It's comfortable, though, and cozy.

-Alex's shifts mean he's often onboard for up to a week at a time, living and working very closely with his staff.

-You know, I've worked with some of my colleagues for six years now, so we've become friends as well as colleagues.

-Right.

You seem like a big, happy family.

I know it's a bit cliché to say, but that's true.

-We are.

We're like a train family... -Yeah.

-...to a degree.

Like I said, we have certain crew members that have been here for years, but we also have new crew members each year, as well.

-Right.

-So it's a good mix.

-Yeah.

-It is.

Yeah.

[ Mid-tempo music plays ] -We're now around an hour north of Perth, where small towns sit beside romantic rivers and historic woodland.

Due to the train's length, it can only stop at certain stations.

We're disembarking in the cathedral city of Dunkeld.

We're all off to a historic town just north of here, Pitlochry.

♪♪ Popularized by Queen Victoria in the 1840s, it's a tourist hot spot, with only 2,500 residents, but over 10,000 hotel beds.

Although good luck getting one during the summer season.

My fellow guests are off to explore a whiskey distillery.

But since I've had more than my fair share of tipple on my travels already, I'm headed to a cultural-arts center right here.

♪♪ Pitlochry Festival Theatre, which I've been desperate to visit for years, has been entertaining visitors to the town since it was founded in a tent in 1951.

It's a rep theater and a cultural hub within the Highlands.

I'm meeting Elizabeth Newman, the artistic director.

-Welcome to Pitlochry Festival Theatre.

-Let's do it.

-Come on.

-New Orleans, I presume.

-[ Laughs ] Oh, gosh.

It's so funny.

When I did it in 7,000 years ago, 1996, the set was very, very similar.

-Mm-hmm.

-"What you are talking about is desire, Stella."

[ Both laugh ] -I should play Blanche.

-Why not?

-It's clearly in my future.

[ Chuckles ] Pitlochry Festival Theatre is what's known as a repertory, or rep theater, where several different plays are performed by the same company of actors at any one time.

Some of our greatest actors, like Judi Dench and Ian McKellen, got their starts in rep.

But unfortunately, Pitlochry is one of the last of its kind.

Let's talk about the actual concept of a repertory company, because that is so rare these days.

-We have this summer, we're producing 10 productions, and we're working with 21 actors to do those 10 shows, because our audience over the summer likes to see lots of different things.

And we want to have that diversity of diet, which is what the rep offers.

And the excitement of tonight, you're gonna see Kirsty Stewart playing Blanche Dubois, and tomorrow, you're going to see her play Laura in "Brief Encounter."

-Well, it's really a sad thing that that is dying off and those young actors now don't have that chance and get the ability to learn and to make mistakes and to kind of develop as artists.

It's all just kind of one job and this one's your next one.

You're doing big productions here.

It's amazing for, like, we're in Pitlochry.

♪♪ Almost 500 miles away from London's West End or Shakespeare's Globe, Scotland's "Theatre in the Hills," as it's known, has an 11-acre campus, with two on-site workshops.

It's one of the largest producing theaters in Scotland, remarkable for a village in the Highlands.

In rehearsals for a new play, there is a familiar face to anyone who knows the phrase "There's been a murder," or, "the cobbled streets of Corry," Scottish actor John Mickey.

-He didn't need me.

-He's very good at what he does.

But it's all anxiety.

It just makes you feel better until the adverts come on.

-How are you enjoying this?

-[ Sighs ] We're just at that stage, really, aren't we, where's it's just sort of -- -At the scary stage.

-Slightly scary.

Very scary.

-Because it's the last play of the season.

-It's a huge operation.

I had no idea all these -- -Massive.

Yeah.

-Massive.

-The studio theater, as well, there's an interesting, new play going on.

-Tiny, small, rural towns are getting some incredible theater.

-So where are we now?

-We are in one of our two workshops.

-Wow!

Oh, my God.

It's gigantic.

During the summer season, the theater employs over 100 people, with each set and every single costume being made right here in Pitlochry.

-That was our poot poot car for when we did "Wind in the Willows," our first show back after the pandemic.

-One of this year's biggest productions is the Broadway musical "Gypsy."

-♪ You'll be swell ♪ ♪ You'll be great ♪ ♪ Gonna have the whole world on a plate ♪ ♪ Starting here, starting now ♪ ♪ Honey, everything's coming up roses ♪ ♪ Clear the decks, clear the tracks ♪ ♪ You've got nothin' to do but relax ♪ ♪ Blow a kiss, take a bow ♪ ♪ Honey, everything's coming up roses ♪ Hi.

Shona.

Lovely to meet you.

-You too.

That was great.

-Thank you.

-Hi.

I am Alan.

-My name is Kristin.

-Kristin.

Uh, wow.

So you're rehearsing for Mama Rose in "Gypsy"?

-Absolutely.

Bucket-list material.

-Is it really?

Is this your first time at Pitlochry?

-It's not my first time in this theater, but it's my first time performing in this theater.

-Right.

-So, yeah.

I used to come as a wee girl.

We used to come caravanning... -Really?

-...come and watch the shows when I was a wee girl.

So the universe has just brought it all together.

-You're having a good summer.

-Yes, absolutely.

-And you're playing the piano, obviously, in "Gypsy."

But do you act in it, too?

-Oh, yeah.

So, this version of "Gypsy" is quite remarkable.

So, we're doing actor musicianship, so I'm playing Tessie Tura.

-What's her gimmick?

-Oh, her gimmick is as a ballerina, she can do some, like, bom bom bom-type scenes.

-Oh, yeah.

-That's such fun.

-Hilarious.

Yeah.

-Hilarious.

How many new plays have you done this season?

-Oh, we're gonna have done four new plays by the time this season ends.

-That's incredible in itself -- like, just any theater in Britain doing four new plays in a season.

But to be in the Highlands of Scotland makes me proud.

-[ Laughs ] Proud to be Scottish.

-Me too, me too.

-Well, do you want to finish?

-If you don't mind.

-I'd love to, yeah.

-Yeah.

Why not?

Shall we?

-Take it away.

-♪ Everything's coming up roses for me ♪ ♪ And for yo-o-o-o-o-u ♪ -Brava!

That's tremendous.

Ah!

That was so great.

Next time, I'll be exploring more routes through the Highlands from east to west.

We take to the water... Ay, stick to acting, Alan.

...I immerse myself in nature... -In she comes.

-...and my boyhood dreams come true.

I'm driving a train.

♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪